Experiment with Seafood: Skate with Browned Butter

Skate is one of those oddities most people see in the seafood case and marvel at the wing-like fillets, but would never consider buying; I used to be one of those people. That all changed one night a number of years ago, after a waiter recommended the skate on their menu. Despite looking like something out of a sci-fi horror film, it was delicious.

Tender and creamy, yet with a fibrous meaty texture that reminds me a bit of braised beef cheeks, skate is loaded collagen, which helps it stay moist even after being thoroughly cooked.

This simple preparation using browned butter and lemon juice is essentially a Meuniere, but I've made a few changes for this unique fish. Because skate takes longer to cook than sole, I fry it in olive oil first, otherwise the butter will burn by the time the fish is cooked through. Capers add a wonderful mustard flavor that complements the richness of the fish, while the lemon juice provides a tart contrast that balances out the dish.

While skate isn't the easiest fish to find, the rest of the ingredients are pantry staples, and this dish comes together in about 10 minutes. If you can't find skate at your fishmonger, you can give this a try with almost any kind of white-meat fish.